Jakarta-monasnews.com, sebagai ibukota negara Repubik Indonesia dikenal memiliki kekayaan kuliner yang beragam dan mengesankan warisan khas masyarakat Betawi. Kuliner Betawi yang tidak hanya nikmat tetapi juga juga unik dan lekat dengan sejarah masih dapat dengan mudah ditemui hingga kini seperti Nasi Uduk, Lontong Sayur, Soto Betawi, Ketoprak ataupun Kerak Telor.
“Namun seiring dengan berkembangnya kota Jakarta dan tergesernya masyarakat Betawi, yang merupakan pendudukasli Kota Jakarta, ke daerah pinggiran, beberapa kuliner khas Betawi seperti Sayur Gabus Pucung mulai jarang ditemui di Jakarta.
Kuliner berbahan utama ikan gabus dan berkuah hitam pekat yang berasal dari pucung (orang Jawa mengenalnya sebagai kluwek) ini kian terpinggirkan dan tak mendapatkan panggung memadai di daerah asalnya sendiri. Akibatnya, perbendaharaan kuliner Betawi warga Ibu Kota pun terbatas. Kuliner seperti Sayur Gabus Pucung ini sekarang lebih banyak dijumpai di pinggiran Jakarta seperti Bekasi, Depok dan Tangerang.
Di Bekasi misalnya, meski tidak semudah menemukan jejak rendang di restoran Padang, jejak kuliner Sayur Gabus Pucung masih dapat djumpai di beberapa restoran atau warung yang menjual Sayur Gabus Pucung sebagai menu utama misalnya di Warung Pucung Pekayon, Warung Pondok Gabus Lukman di Jalan Sudirman, Warung Gabus H. Udin Combo di Harapan Indah atau sebuah warung kecil di dekat alun-alun Kota Bekasi.
semuanya sudah saya kunjungi dan saya cicipi sajian Sayur Gabus Pucungnya. Rata-rata kenikmatannya sama, sama-sama maknyus, yang membedakan hanyalah pada kepekatan kuah sayurnya yang mirip kuah rawon Surabaya. Di Warung Gabus H. Udin Combo, kuahnya sangat kental dan segar. Sementara di warung lainnya tidak terlalu kental kuahnya.
Sedikit perbedaan lainnya adalah cara menghidangkannya. Di Warung Pucung Pekayon dan Warung Gabus H.Udin Combo, ikan gabus ditaruh di dalam dandang yang dihangatkan terus menerus di atas api kecil sebelum dihidangkan. Sementara di Warung Pondok Gabus Lukman, ikan gabus yang sudah matang dipisahkan dan baru dicampur/disiram kuah hangat saat akan disajikann, alasannya agar daging ikan gabus tidak mudah hancur.
Menurut sejarahnya,keberadaan kuliner Sayur Gabus Pucung sendiri berawal dari ketidakmampuan masyarakat Betawi di zaman kolonial Belanda untuk mengkonsumsi ikan budidaya yang mahal bagi rakyat seperti ikan mas, mujair dan bandeng. Namun agar tetap dapat mengkonsumsi ikan, masyarakat Betawi kemudian memilih ikan gabus yang jauh lebih murah.
Ikan gabus yang berkembang biak secara liar, hidup di air tawar seperti danau, sungai, rawa-rawa, empang dan saluran air hingga ke sawah-sawah dan bebas menjadi pilihan rakyat untuk diolah menjadi masakan yang relatif terjangkau. Apalagi pada saat itu pohon pucung sendiri banyak tumbuh di daerah Betawi tempo dulu seperti Depok dan Cibubur. Dengan tambahan cabai, bawang merah,bawang putih, kencur, jahe dan kunyit, jadilah hidangan Sayur Gabus Pucung yang dahsyat.
Dalam perkembangannya, Sayur Gabus Pucung bukan sekedar kuliner tetapi juga menjadi masakan yang memiliki nilai budaya Betawi.
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